There is nothing more rewarding than scoring good waves, except scoring good waves after putting in hard work to get them. The anticipation while studying the forecast trying to figure out where it’s going to be on then waking up at a ridiculous time and driving for hours to a desired destination is my favourite thing to do. For some reason when I do this solo the reward is so much bigger. I spent some time in the United States Pacific Northwest last year with some guys I had met in Indonesia a few years earlier. These guys grew up in the PNW and still reside there today surfing in freezing cold water and driving up and down the coast searching for ice cold barrels. Seeing the effort that these guys go to and the conditions they deal with on a daily basis lit a fire inside me. I was put out of my comfort zone and I was rewarded for going that bit further and trying that bit harder.
Ever since that trip I have been obsessed with surfing new spots and travelling further than usual to score waves. Last weekend I was studying the swell and wind charts realizing that there was going to be some good waves at my local spot and also several hours down the coast. Instead of taking the easy option and surfing within half an hour of my house I decided to travel three and a half hours down the coast to spot I hadn’t surfed for over five years. This ended up being a great decision and I scored big time. I surfed for almost three hours in perfect three to four feet right hand point break walls. I was so stoked it payed off and I’m even getting stoked again just writing about it.
Hopefully I have inspired you to go that bit further and try that bit harder to find some good waves somewhere you wouldn’t usually go or even think of going. Life is great make the most of it and step out of your comfort zone.
By: Jamie Nicholson
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